Spring recipes by Rowley Leigh news and features

It is no surprise that Lent often falls in March: with winter stocks depleted, few vegetables and less fruit, there is not a lot for the seasonal cook. April is when things wake up and that is what Easter means to me. The new grass has cheered up the lamb and beef, and the chickens have started to lay again. There are spring greens, the first asparagus and wild offerings such as nettles, ramsons and little fairy-ring mushrooms to get excited about, while the Gulf Stream brings lobsters, crabs and mackerel close to shore. These recipes reflect the fact that summer may not be here but at least winter is behind us, giving both cook and gastronome a little spring in their step. I have made some wine suggestions
to accompany my new-season dishes, which Anne Tupker MW has reviewed in more detail.